Time to line up the drawing on top of the bottom board and mark out the positions of the knees (the triangular blocks that support the sides of the case) and the braces that stiffen the bottom.
Here is a close-up of the spine side of the drawing lined up exactly along the edge of the bottom.
From the close-up view of the opposite side - the cheek - you can see that the bottom is over sized by a few millimeters.
After marking out the upper side of the bottom I flipped it over to mark out the position of the stand.
Here is a close-up of the spine side of the drawing lined up exactly along the edge of the bottom.
From the close-up view of the opposite side - the cheek - you can see that the bottom is over sized by a few millimeters.
After marking out the upper side of the bottom I flipped it over to mark out the position of the stand.
How big is your workbench top? Mine is currently 2'x7' and it looks like I need to add a top if I want to accommodate the entire instrument.
ReplyDeleteMy current workbench is 78" x 31" - rather wider than a normal woodworking bench precisely because I knew that I wanted to be able to assemble a harpsichord on it. That having been said I think that you can probably do pretty much everything that you need on a 24" wide bench although, of course, you will have some of the instrument hanging over the edge.
DeleteWas your drawing mylar, or similar? Mine is paper and not translucent like yours appears to be in the photos.
ReplyDeleteSpeaking of photos, the instruction booklet refers to photos fairly often. I have no idea where these photos are. They certainly aren't in the booklet - I check every single page. I can't find any other paperwork in the boxes or hardware bags. There isn't a DVD.
I had a lucky break with a workbench. The day after I got my kit a local yard sale had this incredible 8' x 3'8" x 4" maple butcher block old, old school drafting table with a welded steel stand. I snapped it up in a hurry. It weighs who knows what - the top is well over 200 lbs. Yeehaw.